11 November 2010

I've been quiet because life has been quiet.
I am really looking forward to the holidays.

Starting a new book. New territory for me. I typically work with contemporary art, but this one focuses on the late 1880s!

Anything new with you?

31 October 2010

When the week ended, Sarah and I packed up our things and headed back to the border. It took us quite a bit longer to get out of China than it did to get in. The lines were long, even at 11:30pm, and we were scrutinized a bit more.

The next night, after a terribly long and frustrating journey, Ryan arrived in Hong Kong.

As I waited in the airport, a young family stood next to me waiting for their arriving friends. The two adults were in their late twenties and their son was not older than two. Like most two-year-olds, he was squirming around, looking for ways to entertain himself. He was remarkably pleasant considering it was 12:30am. I noticed that they switched between Cantonese and English when speaking to on another.

All of a sudden I hear the mother gasp and call to her husband. I look down at the little boy standing next to me. He has taken down his cotton pajama pants and is standing with his hips thrust forward looking at his penis. It only takes me seconds to realize that he is about to pee. I can't look away. What are they going to do?

The mother tears open her purse, reaches in and her hand emerges with a plastic baggie.

Huh?

She opens the baggie and holds it to the boy's body as he fills the bag.

What the?

When he was through, the father ties up the bag and walks it to the nearest trash can.

I was sort of shocked by the whole scene. Not that a child had to pee instantly, no, that's common enough. It was that:
1. He wasn't wearing a diaper
2. The mother was at the ready with her plastic bag
3. The father threw away a bag of urine in the airport trash can

Later that week Ryan witnessed a similar thing, only it took place on the streets of Hong Kong. A father and his child were walking down the street when suddenly the child had to urinate. The father placed an empty water bottle in front of him and he took care of his business.

If it's true that many children in Asia do not wear disposable diapers, this is quite a good thing for our environment :)

30 October 2010

Ever since reading about it, it's been hard to wrap my head around the idea of adults living in factory dormitories. The only exposure I've had to this arrangement is the housing provided to the migrant workers who came to my hometown each summer to harvest tobacco. I was fascinated by these buildings when I was growing up. They were mysterious to me.

Our driver lived in the factory dormitories, as did all of the young workers who threatened to trample us as they streamed down the stairs after completing their shifts. The conditions were not good and I can't imagine what they thought of their position. Were they proud to be employed, sending money back to their families in rural parts of China? Were they lonely, so far away from home? Were they satisfied by the camaraderie they shared with the many other young people in the same position?

Of a dorm located in the same province I was working in, Peter Hessler writes:

13 October 2010

Entry from travel diary:

September 8, 2010
Grand City Hotel
5:15 am

Yesterday when we were leaving the plant for lunch, I was staring out of the van window in a daze. My eyes weren't focused on anything in particular... I was tired and spaced out. I came to my senses when I inadvertently found myself making eye-contact with a man lounging underneath a tractor-trailer truck.

Container trucks are often parked outside the plant being loaded or unloaded with pallets of books that are bound for the shipyard. But I was shocked when I saw this man suspended in a hammock that was tied up between the truck and the container. Later, while we were on the road, I saw a hammock hanging underneath the container itself. Luckily, there was no one in it.

Here is a photo that illustrates the general idea..


This photo does not belong to me. This photo is courtesy panamvan.blogspot.com and was taken in Honduras, not China.

12 October 2010

Entry from travel diary:

September 7, 2010
Grand City Hotel
5:22 am

I woke up at 4am this morning and I couldn't get back to sleep.

First impression of China: It is dirty.

I really didn't expect it to be so dirty. I mentioned in my entries last summer that I though Hong Kong was very dirty. The smog was seemingly palpable; buildings dripped with layers of solidified pollution; the streets were lined with mysterious liquid runoff. But compared to the area I am in now, Hong Kong is a dream.

Driving from the plant to the hotel, we travel through streets lined with dirt-floored shacks with one light bulb hanging from the ceiling. The rooms are opened with garage-like doors... a voyeur's dream.

Last night we left the plant around 9pm. The day shift had just ended and people flooded the streets and alley ways. When we emerged from the plant, we found that our driver had not yet arrived. We stood and waited outside the plant gates.

Groups of shirtless young men, cigarettes casually dangling from their lips, started to gather to stare at us. Being blonde and fair-skinned is a tough thing to hide. We climbed into the van when it arrived, but it was difficult to leave. Workers mill about the streets, unwilling to move for traffic, staring into our car.
_________________________________________________

Not long before arriving in China I read the book "Oracle Bones" by Peter Hessler. Hessler is an American who has lived and worked in China for many years. In the book, he explains that until 1980 the Chinese government was reluctant to develop the region where Shenzhen is today. The government worried that because the region is located so close to Hong Kong, the "capitalist British colony" would contaminate China's communist beliefs.

But in the late 1970s the Chinese government developed Special Economic Zones: An experiment to develop areas quickly by offering tax breaks and investment privileges to foreign investors.

In the book, published in 2006, Hessler writes:

The government's development of the city was simple and straightforward: build infrastructure, invite foreign investment, and attract migrants. In two decades the city's population exploded from around three hundred thousand to more than four million people. . . . The average resident was less than 29 years old; there were few elderly people.

Shenzhen was the only place in China with a modern city wall. It was about ten feet high, and made of chain link; some sections were topped by barbed wire. The entire structure was sixty-seven miles long. If you approached the city from the north you entered one of the wall's checkpoints and followed a modern highway through low green hills.

Despite the leaders' attempts to define and delineate their experiment, certain aspects of Shenzhen developed in their own way. The region came to be dominated by labor-intesive light industry, and factory managers preferred female workers, who could be paid less and were easier to manage. . . Locals often claimed that the ratio was seven women to every man. Shenzhen became famous for prostitution and also for its "second wives," the mistresses of factory owners who already had families in Hong Kong or Taiwan.

The plant where Sarah and I printed the book was not within the walls of Shenzhen (actually, I am not sure if the fence is still up around the city.)

Attempts at border control had unintended consequences. Many factories moved to the other side of the Shenzhen fence, where they took advantage of cheaper land and less rigorous law enforcement. The Shenzhen area became divided into two worlds, which were described by residents as guannei and guanwai, "within the gates" and "beyond the gates."

11 October 2010

In the van on our way back to the plant, I blurted out to Sarah:
"I want that Magic Towel!"
"Yeah" She said, "There is a lot of stuff to look at in the bathroom."
"But the Magic Towel isn't free," I said.

Our conversation moved on without much more discussion of the Magic Towel.

Later that night, we returned to the hotel after a long shift at the plant. I get out my things to brush my teeth when I remember the basket of toiletries. WITHOUT TOUCHING, I look through the basket and see:

His and her lubricants;
Condoms with a fancy vibrating ring;
His and her sanitary lotion
and
The Magic Towel

Oh my gosh.... It dawned on me at the moment that the Magic Towel is for Wiping Up!!!
And since Sarah has stayed at the Grand City Hotel several times, she knew all along.

From that moment on, I was completely grossed out. Every splatter or stain became evidence of an elicit night between a business man and a prostitute.

Needless to say, I never touched the robe hanging in the closet.

30 September 2010

From Chinese immigration we went straight to the printing plant. We spent a few hours working before we had a break to check into our hotel. When we arrived at the Grand City Hotel, we had only a few minutes to put our bags in our rooms before we had to head back to work.

I went up to my room, and instead of returning to the lobby immediately, I took a quick look around. I walked to the window to check out the view...



I looked in the closet to see if there was a complimentary robe and slippers (yes and yes); I also spotted this handy smoke hood (in case of a fire):



And then I strolled through the bathroom. There were all sorts of goods laid out on the counter: Two dental kits, a sewing kit, a nice comb, cotton swabs... the standards. Then I noticed a basket full of toiletries. The first thing to catch my eye was a dehydrated towel (Aptly named the "Magic Towel.") I've seen things like this in novelty stores...but before I got excited about my free towel, I noticed a price on it.


(photo obtained from the internet - as you can see, this is not the "Magic Towel" that I had in my room)

Realizing I might be late getting back, I returned to the lobby without looking at anything else in the basket.
On Monday morning, Sarah and I met Samuel, our rep from Hong Kong. He would aide us throughout the trip with everything from translation and negotiations on press to getting through menus with no letters.

From the hotel, the three of us took a taxi to the bus station, a bus to the Hong Kong border, where we went through customs to exit Hong Kong, another bus across an undefined territory to the Chinese border, where we went through immigration to enter China, and finally a hired car to get to the printing plant in the Guangdong Province, 45 minutes outside of Shenzhen, China. In all, it took about two hours.

The taxi ride was uneventful enough. The bus trips were smooth, aside from the cacophony of snoring business men. It wasn't until we were tucked into the printer's hired minivan that I started to fear for my life. The fact that I was in a very foreign country didn't bother me, nor the idea that I was so far from home --- it was simply the lack of road rules that had me on edge. Not once did I see an octagonal red sign; and not once did our vehicle stop as we spilled from a side road onto a main thoroughfare.

To take a left, we would simply position ourselves perpendicular to three lanes of oncoming traffic with the hope that we'd make it across before being flattened by an oncoming fleet of tractor trailers.

Later, we heard tales of local drivers throwing their cars into reverse on the highway! If they missed their exit, some simply stopped and backed up - despite the 55+ mph oncoming traffic!

Had I not been strapped in, I would have been bouncing from one end of that van to the other.

28 September 2010

On Saturday, September 4, 2010 I flew from Baltimore to Chicago where I made my connection to the 16-hour flight to Hong Kong. Both flights were uneventful. The flight to Hong Kong inched by with each hour feeling like an eternity. To the surprise of many, this United airplane was not outfitted with individual television monitors, but with group screens. The movies shown were:

The Back-Up Plan with Jennifer Lopez (mediocre)
The Joneses with Demi Moore and David Ducovny (so bad I couldn’t get through it)
Iron Man 2 (it got boring, I didn’t watch it all)
Just Wright with Queen Latifah (slept through it)

I arrived in Hong Kong on time on Sunday, September 5, 2010 around 5:30pm.
After collecting my bags I took the Airport Express train into Hong Kong. For $19 it was a great choice: so clean, on time, quiet, cool. It beat the $50 taxi Ryan and I took when he arrived.

After a quick shower at the hotel, I met Sarah, who had arrived from London earlier that day, and we went out for dinner.

27 September 2010

My trip to Asia earlier this month was a much better than the one I took last year. My company was great, as was the printer I worked with in Shenzhen. My next few posts will give you a quick overview and some anecdotes pulled from the journal I kept while traveling.

26 September 2010

24 September 2010

21 September 2010

18 September 2010

16 September 2010

A View of Hong Kong Island from the Star Ferry

Click to enlarge.

01 September 2010

Last year when I went to Hong Kong I was terribly distraught about leaving. Thinking back on why I was so upset, I recall:

The H1N1 virus was in full swing. Travelers were being quarantined for weeks in China and my temperature would be taken upon landing in Hong Kong to determine if I was well enough to enter the country

Air France flight 447 had just disappeared over the Atlantic Ocean

I would be spending my birthday alone

My uneasiness did not subside when I arrived safely. I was lonely. I was overwhelmed. I called Ryan immediately and had him change my flight to an earlier date.

After being home for a couple of weeks after the trip, I realized that I had squandered an exceptional opportunity to see a very different part of the world.

Luckily, I have the opportunity to make up for the lost experience.

On Saturday, I leave for Hong Kong. From there, I travel to mainland China where I will work for a week. I'll return to Hong Kong, where Ryan will meet me and we'll spend five days touring Hong Kong and Macau.

The best part: I won’t be alone. Sarah, our partner from London, will be meeting me in Hong Kong and going to China with me… and of course, Ryan will arrive later.

I am really excited about this trip!

Fingers crossed Hurricane Earl won’t mess with my travel plans.

30 August 2010

Like many dogs, Sal's feet often twitch when he is sleeping deeply...I imagine he is dreaming about running freely in an open field.
This morning, however, he was wagging his tail in his sleep!
So cute! I'm glad he was having a happy dream.

Driving home.



26 August 2010

Evidence

Have I shared this before?
Evidence of my problem with Cheez-Its can be traced way back...

24 August 2010

23 August 2010

Carnie



click photo to enlarge

18 August 2010

Carolina Beach



click photo to enlarge

16 August 2010

13 August 2010

A New Addiction

We are growing okra in the garden. I never would have guessed that this crop would bring me the most joy. I honestly thought it would be the tomatoes. Don't get me wrong, I love my tomatoes. Their production has been stellar - but they've worn me out.

I had no idea that okra plants produced such beautiful flowers.



And I can't eat enough of them. I've used okra in many dishes (and I love them pickled!) but by far, my favorite way to prepare okra is the simplest: toss in a bit olive oil, salt, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, tossing every 5.

10 August 2010

Cheez Its

An otherwise perfectly fine day took an ugly turn in the late afternoon, leaving me standing on an over-crowded train in a sour mood. It really doesn't matter what it was that put the scowl on my face (work-related stress typically isn't worth the re-hash); the interesting part is how we get ourselves out of the funk.

Venting, breathing, running, dancing, drinking, eating. We all have our ways of beating the blues.

Today I conquered my anger with Cheez-Its.
R and I have been on a very controlled low-carb diet for two weeks now. When I got home to an empty house, I headed straight for that red box.

Now I just have to rid myself of the shame of eating far too many orange crackers.

What do you do to beat the stress?

My Summer Hiatus Is Over

I realize that I never announced my summer break from blogging, so it is likely that most of you have abandoned jessicahawkins.blogspot altogether. But if you somehow made it back here, I hope you'll continue to visit. My hiatus is officially over.

07 June 2010

05 June 2010

First Tomato

04 June 2010

First Purple Pepper

02 June 2010

Spring


This might be one of the coolest photos I've ever taken... No photoshop!!

01 June 2010


The best way to spend a Saturday.

25 May 2010


The last book I designed accompanied an exhibit that we recently opened featuring all of the photography and documentation pertaining to Christo and Jeanne-Claude's Running Fence. With this book, I had the opportunity to use non-traditonal materials and techniques. The end result was very gratifying.

Last week I learned that the Washington Book Publishers awarded the book first place in its category. On June 10th, I will learn if it wins Best In Show. Keep your fingers crossed.




22 May 2010

Whenever the subject of snakes comes up, it's usually followed by a round of squeals, scrunched noses, and shaking heads. I typically laugh and launch into the story about the time I picked up a snake with my bare hands and held it up to my father; I was about six years old. What courage!

Even as an adult I've not been particularly scared of snakes. I save that fear for spiders and cockroaches. Oh wait - there was that time with the snake in Kentucky... when it tried to get into our boat. That was pretty horrifying.

Today I opened the front door and walked outside. I wasn't two steps out the door when I noticed movement about a foot to my left. I turned and jumped back. There was a snake in our shrub, it's head out, tongue flicking, eyes locked on mine. My courage failed me and I ran all the way around the house, in the back door and up the stairs, yelling to Ryan about a snake.

Turns out I don't care much for snakes. Not if they live at my house.

15 May 2010

Did you know that you can pay a service to make daily wake up calls to your home?
Seriously?

www.mycalls.net

21 April 2010

Weeds.

20 April 2010


KEENELAND
Lexington, Kentucky
April 16 - 17, 2010

19 April 2010


KEENELAND
Lexington, Kentucky
April 16 - 17, 2010

18 April 2010

Back to the Races...


KEENELAND
Lexington, Kentucky
April 16 - 17, 2010

06 April 2010

Ocean at Night

02 March 2010

On my way to work this morning I walked behind a suited businessman carrying his bagged lunch. What made him particularly unique was that he was carrying his lunch in a white Glad Force-Flex garbage bag: red ties at the top and all.

Through the plastic I could make out his yogurt, hostess cupcakes, and a drink.

01 March 2010

It is so hard for me to understand why people drink on the commuter train in the evenings. That might sound strange coming from me, as I quite enjoy a cold beer or glass of wine after work, but I just don't understand why people can't wait until they get home. You might be surprised at how many people imbibe on the train - and how varied the drinkers are. I've seen middle-aged business men with a brown-bagged can of beer, 40-something women chugging bud lights, and even grandmothers sipping pre-mixed margaritas...very strange.

25 February 2010

23 February 2010

Venice







22 February 2010

Digging a path to our back door...



Getting lost while getting the mail...



19 February 2010

When we returned to the States after a week in Italy, two freak snowstorms in DC/Maryland made it impossible for us to get home. It wasn't until a week after we got back from Italy that we finally made it home. These photos were taken our first night back.




18 February 2010

Despite earlier promises, I've obviously not increased the frequency of blog posts this month, but that's not for lack of material. Most of you know that I was fortunate enough to return to Italy on January 30th, but the trip there and back was filled with so many difficulties that I've needed a lot of time to decompress. I will soon be posting photos of our time in Italy, and of the snow we returned to.

10 January 2010

Happy New Year! As expected, January started off with a bang. The first day back to work after a great holiday was a whirlwind and it's been that way since. The exhibition catalogue I am working on is wrapping up and I'll be traveling in just a few weeks to see it on press. I hope to start a more regular blog schedule in February.