It has taken me quite some time to deconstruct my experience in New Orleans. Moving through the city evoked waves of emotion - one thought or feeling often contradicted by the next. In some moments I felt as if time had stood still -- we found many old friends in the exact same place we'd left them in August 2005, some in the middle of what seemed to be the same conversation. And while this was incredibly awe-inspiring, so was the fact that other moments left us feeling stranded and unable to grasp how much had changed, or how much had been left to decay.

Our entire trip was an adventure of rediscovery, of tracing old paths and finding ourselves continuously amazed by both the resilience and the frailty of the city and its people.

When Ryan and I first moved to New Orleans in the summer of 2002, we lived in Mid-City in what was formerly the American Can Company; a canning factory that operated from 1970 to 1986. As every neighborhood in New Orleans is markedly unique, Mid-City stands apart with its tropical atmosphere and waterfront properties (Bayou St. John winds its way through the area.) On Saturday, March 22, 2008, Ryan and I woke up early and walked from the French Quarter, up Canal Street, to Mid-City. This isn't a scenic walk, and I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but it gave us a vantage point of the city that we otherwise wouldn't have had.

The entire time I was in the city I was amazed that three years had passed. So many problems remain, some much more obvious than others. It was on our walk to Mid-City that I was confronted with what was most perplexing - the many people that are living under the I-10 overpass. Hundreds of tents, sleeping bags, and mattresses clutter the cement; with so many people, and no running water, it is no wonder that the smell is unbearable. How is this OK? I understand there are many grassroots organizations working with the homeless each day, but where is the local government?

The remainder of the walk was a fairly quiet one. Many buisnesses have moved from the area, abandoning their old buildings. It was strange to see these lonely run-down places that were once a part of my everyday life. And unfortunately, this trend continued as we came upon Mid-City.

Among the many things I came to love while living in New Orleans including soul food, crawfish, zydeco music, gambling, a block party on any day of the week celebrating anything or nothing at all, I came to love Vietnamese food. I could eat Bun or Pho at any time on any day. Though I knew we were trekking up to Mid-City for many reasons, in my heart I had only one destination: Pho Tau Bay.

Not surprisingly, I was absolutely crushed when we found ourselves standing in front of a boarded-up building.

To be continued...

Thanks for checking in. I am experiencing some sort of writers block. Hopefully this will pass soon!

Each time I put on the Ralph Lauren perfume Romance I am reminded of Italy.  Shortly before my trip there in July 2007, I received the perfume as a birthday gift from my parents.  I left the States with a full bottle (thankfully travel-sized) and arrived without any perfume at all. Sometime during my journey the top had come off of the bottle and the perfume spilled in my toiletry bag.  At the time, I was disappointed and slightly disgusted.  The scent was overwhelming; even my prescription pills tasted of Romance.  But the fragrance permeated my every memory, and now, I am thrilled to be reminded of Italy with a simple  spritz of perfume.

While beautiful photographs are priceless and the taste of local fare unmatched, there is something to be said for the way our noses can launch us back to a very specific time or place. And while the journey amid our memories is sweet, sometimes the smell that takes us there is less so.

How much do you know about garbage juice?  The stuff is so common in New Orleans that a task force was formed to monitor the companies that collect trash and leak the liquid throughout the streets.  It's nasty.  And it has a very distinct smell.  The first hint of garbage juice spun me back to the many nights Ryan and I spent bar-hopping in the French Quarter.

Much closer to our hearts is the scent of Angel's Trumpet.  When we finally cleared the pile of rotting brush in the backyard of our house on Dauphine Street, I took on the daunting task of transplanting a large tree-like plant (we had no idea what it was at the time we moved in.) It was deeply rooted and reluctant to move.  Once in its new spot, I watched it for weeks as it slowly returned to life.  I didn't know it at the time, but it would have been a significant loss if the plant didn't survive its move. During the blazing hot summers, when the sun was setting and the heat started subside, the sweetest smell would float through our yard.  We would sit outside each evening and marvel at this incredible plant.

Our noses were on high alert as we walked through the Marigny and Bywater during our visit. And while many fragrant flowers were blooming, we would have had to wait until dusk for our beloved to reveal itself.

It may be a bit before I post again to this blog. The week has been crazy as we gear up for our trip to New Orleans. But before we take to the air on Friday morning, we are taking in some basketball on Thursday night. In a stroke of luck, Ryan and I got tickets to round one, session two of the NCAA championship tournament. Friday morning may be just a bit more difficult, but the bloodshot eyes will be well worth it.

I look forward to sharing stories and photos when we return from our first trip back to N.O. since Katrina.

Though there is still a slight chill in the air, it is clear that spring it on its way. Geese are honking their way through the skies, returning home from their winter homes. Crocuses are bursting forth from beneath the lingering fallen leaves. Trees are budding. Birds are chirping. And finally, I can return home from work with time to enjoy an evening walk and catch the sunset.

Congratulations Dad! You are on your way to a pain-free life.

My dad successfully underwent hip-replacement surgery this morning. Everyone I talk to is shocked that he had to have such an operation. He's not very old, is he? He's not an over-weight guy, right?
No and no.

I guess all of the years of running up and down soccer fields, running around baseball diamonds, climbing up and down ladders, and hauling fire hose have caught up to him. Obviously he's not a guy who likes to sit still, so the six weeks on crutches will be the most difficult weeks for him.

Still, all of the woes of recovery will be worth it when he is able to sit in a movie theatre, drive his car, or simply have dinner without having to stand up every five minutes in search of a painless position.

It's true. We so rarely explore our own backyards. Instead, we travel to other cities, in other states or countries, to tour their museums, historic landmarks, and parks. I grew up in the first town established in the fifth of the original thirteen states. And while our history didn't completely elude me, I just learned more about Windsor, Connecticut on Wikipedia than I did while I lived there. (For my Connecticut readers, did you know that Oliver Ellsworth was the third Chief Justice of the United States? or that John Fitch was the inventor of the steamboat?)

Now that I live in the Nation's Capital and work for the Smithsonian Institution, my lack of experience in my own city is starting to embarrass me. Thus, I've made a list of places I'd like to visit before packing my bags and continuing on with my journey.

Museums
Yikes! Though employed by the Smithsonian for almost three years, I've yet to visit all of our museums. I must visit the:

National Museum of the American Indian
African Art Museum
Postal Museum and
Freer and Sackler Galleries (I've actually been to the Freer & Sackler, but I should return for a more thorough visit.)

Museums unaffiliated with the Smithsonian Institution

United States Holocaust Memorial Museum
The Phillips Collection
Corcoran Gallery
The Building Museum and
National Museum of Health and Medicine (at Walter Reed Army Medical Center)

National Landmarks

The National Cathedral
The Library of Congress
The United States Capitol

Parks
Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens
The National Arboretum

I know, I know. It is despicable! Now do you see why I am embarrassed? I've got a lot of touring to do. Luckily, warm weather is right around the corner and I'll be inspired to explore.