a document of days

Watermelon

2011-10-13T11:37:00.001-04:00

At a very late date I decided to plant watermelons. I had nothing to lose!
Four melons grew, but this one was by far the largest.

The others were sweet and small. I will definitely plant them again next year... but earlier!

Bacon, Bleu Cheese & Apple Galette

2011-10-10T11:09:00.005-04:00

Putting a little twist on weekend brunch, I whipped up these little free-form tarts using corn bread mix and granny smith apples. They were delicious! Ryan suggested adding a raspberry or apricot jam between the corn bread and the filling -- and I agree, this would be an excellent addition. We ending up eating this with a dollup of raspberry jam.

Bacon, Bleu Cheese & Apple Galette
Adapted from Better Homes & Gardens

6 slices bacon
1 8.5 oz. pkg. corn muffin mix
2/3 cup all purpose flour
1 tsp chili powder
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 milk
3 Granny Smith apples, cored and thinly sliced
1/3 cup bleu cheese crumbles
Raspberry or Apricot Jam (optional)
Fresh Thyme (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a skillet cook bacon until crisp. Drain; reserve 1 tbsp drippings. Chop bacon.
2. Meanwhile, in a bowl combine muffin mix, flour, chili powder, egg, and milk. Divide dough into four portions. Place two portrions each on a greased baking sheet and press to 6- to 7-inch circles. (Try to get it as thin as you can manage.)
3. Top each circle with thin layer of jam, followed by sliced apples, leaving 1-inch border. Fold edges around apple slices. Brush apples with reserved bacon drippings. Sprinkle with fresh thyme.
4. Bake 10 minutes. Top with bleu cheese and bacon; bake 5 to 7 minues more until edges are golden and bottom of crust is set.

del Potro Wins!

2011-09-07T08:30:00.004-04:00

Last night I was glued to the television. I had a million things to do, but I just couldn't tear myself away from the riveting championship tennis match between Federer and del Potro! Finally, I gave up on all of the tasks for the evening and moved the party upstairs.

Ryan hoped to get to sleep a little earlier but sitting up in bed, he was just as enthralled in the match as I was.

Finally, after biting our nails, and ignoring our yawns, the match came to an end.

Juan Martin del Potro defeated Roger Federer in the 2009 U.S. Open.

Ryan: THIS IS THE 2009 U.S. OPEN?? I lost sleep over the 2009 U.S. Open?!?!?

Oops.

Arugula Pesto

2011-08-04T06:00:00.000-04:00

2011-08-02T06:00:00.000-04:00

Eggplant

2011-07-31T18:45:00.001-04:00

Leftover Peaches & Mango Puree

2011-07-27T06:00:00.002-04:00

I picked up a few too many peaches at the farmer's market last week. Perfectly ripe from the beginning, a week later I stashed them in the refrigerator and swore I wouldn't waste them.

And I didn't. I whipped up the most refreshing summer afternoon daiquiri.

Peach Mango Daquairi

1 large very ripe peach, pitted
3 tablespoons mango puree (easily found in international food stores with Indian ingredients)
1 shot light rum
1 cup ice

Combine in blender and serve. (All ingredients may be adjusted to your liking!)

Salt Cod, Two Ways

2011-07-22T16:13:00.006-04:00

Nonno's lunches are famous among my family and friends. Those of you that have had the privilege of sharing a meal at his table know their power. We often excuse ourselves feeling miserably full, having failed to wave off the second and third helping that was heaped upon our plate despite objection.

Nonno prepares a handful of simple and perfect meals: fried shrimp, spaghetti with fresh pesto, or baccalà. The dishes are simple meals that, regardless of my efforts, resist duplication.

However, my desire to preserve family recipes (and my simple stubbornness) sustain my repeated effort to create meals as simple and as good.

This weekend, I prepared baccalà and salt cod croquettes. One a traditional dish of my family, the other a Portuguese finger-food.

While baccalà is well known in traditional Italian culture and cuisine, it neither originates or is prepared in Italy—nor anywhere else in the Mediterranean.

Baccalà and stoccafisso (both dried cod—baccalà is dried with salt and stoccafisso, or stock fish, is fresh-dried, without salt) are caught in North Atlantic waters as distant as Norway, Iceland, and Newfoundland.

Dried cod and the dishes made from it are known by many different names, as it influenced the cuisine of many European nations. For example, it is known as: bacalhau in Portuguese, bacalao in Spanish, and baccalà in Italian. Scandinavian nations refer to it as clipfish, and Caribbean natives call it saltfish.

Baccalà with Lemon, Garlic, and Potatoes

Rinse baccalà thoroughly and place in a deep container.
Cover fish with water. Soak for at least 24 hours and up to 2 days, changing the water at least three times or every 8 hours. While refrigeration is not necessary, I felt better about it being cold.

Remove fish from water; rinse.

Place fish in a large pot of boiling water for 15 - 20 minutes or until the fish flakes easily. With a slotted spoon, remove fish from water and place in a large bowl. Using two forks, flake the fish and set aside.

Place potatoes in the boiling water. Cook until tender.

Slice cooled potatoes and add to fish.

Toss with olive oil, lemon juice and finely sliced garlic.

Chill and serve.

Salt Fish Croquettes
Loosely adapted from Food & Wine

2 tbs olive oil
1 medium shallot
1 large clove garlic
1 tbs finely chopped cilantro
1 medium potato, boiled
1 cup Baccalà (soaked, cooked, and flaked per recipe above)
1 egg white
1 egg
flour, for dredging
breadcrumbs, for dredging
Vegetable oil, for frying.

Saute shallot and garlic in olive oil until shallot is translucent.
Mash potato and combine with shallot and garlic in medium-sized bowl.
Add cilantro, baccalà, and egg white.
Mix until combined.

Refrigerate mixture until cool.

Next, Fill skillet with 1/2" vegetable oil. Heat.
Form cod mixture into balls.
Dredge balls in flour, egg, and then breadcrumbs.

Place croquettes into hot oil. Turn once to brown.
Remove to a paper towel-lined plate.

Serve with lemon.

Makes 6 croquettes.

Another Angel's Trumpet

2011-07-18T16:28:00.001-04:00

Angel's Trumpet

2011-07-16T20:58:00.000-04:00

Apricot Martini

2011-07-15T06:00:00.000-04:00

Apricots are in season!

Ryan gathered a bag of ripe apricots from the grocery store with a plan for apricot martinis. I was skeptical, as I don't think of an apricot as a juicy fruit that would mix nicely in a cocktail. However, Ryan proved me wrong.

By using an electric juicer, Ryan was able to produce an apricot pulp that mixed up as a wonderful martini.

Peas!

2011-07-13T06:00:00.002-04:00

There are a few crops from my grandfather's garden that delighted me as a child. Of course, I enjoyed just about everything that he grew, but there was something special about the fruits and vegetables that could be enjoyed while standing right there in the garden, following a quick polish on your shirt.

I often followed my grandfather through the rows of peas as he picked them, waiting to be handed a pea pod swollen with wonderful, sweet peas.

Because they are a cool weather crop, my sweet pea plants were the first to produce this season. Clearly, I am a bit late with this post. My peas plants have long been in the compost bin. But happily, I photographed them just after harvest.

Whiskey Sour

2011-07-09T12:02:00.008-04:00

One fateful night, during my freshman year of college, Jack Daniels and I had a falling out. Since then, I've steered clear of all whiskey bourbons.

Many years have passed and now that my memory of our disagreement is vague, my interest in bourbon has been reignited.

I have enjoyed whiskey-sours before, but am typically put-off by the artificial flavor of pre-mixed sour mixer. Making the sour-mix from scratch produces a much nicer flavor.

For four cocktails:

1 1/4 c. freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 c. Freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 ts. granulated sugar
4 oz. bourbon
2 c. ice

Crop Circles

2011-05-20T09:50:00.003-04:00

Lucky Cat

2011-05-14T18:02:00.005-04:00

Quite a while ago, Ryan and I had lunch at PF Chang's China Bistro. Feeling adventurous, I ordered a Lucky Cat martini; I loved it. It is quite a sweet drink, mixing the flavors of pineapple, raspberry, and vanilla. Perfect for dessert.

Lucky Cat Martini

2 oz. Smirnoff Vanilla Vodka
1 oz Dole Pineapple Juice
0.5 oz of Chambord, sink in center of glass

Shake together vodka, pinapple juice, and ice. Strain into a martini glass. Carefully pour in 0.5oz Chambord; it will sit on the bottom of the drink. Garnish with a wedge of fresh pineapple.

Enjoy!

Loot.

2011-05-10T06:00:00.000-04:00

Belgian chocolates are a unique indulgance. This set of Galler is one of the delicious lines of chocolate we returned with.

Mint Julep

2011-05-07T17:41:00.004-04:00

Happy Derby Day!

In honor of Kentucky Derby tradition, I whipped up a batch of mint juleps this afternoon. For a twist on the classic cocktail, ginger was added to the simple syrup.

Ginger Mint Julep
adapted from Better Homes and Gardens

Ingredients
3/4 cup water
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 2-inch piece ginger, thinly sliced
1/2 cup bourbon
1-1/2 cup mint sprigs, loosely packed
Crushed Ice
Long strips of lemon peel

Directions
1. For syrup, in small saucepan combine water, sugar and sliced ginger; bring to boiling; stir to dissolve sugar. Cover and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat; cool. Strain; discard ginger.

2. Divide mint among 6 small glasses or silver mint julep cups. Add 2 tablespoons ginger syrup to each glass. With a spoon, stir to bruise mint. Divide bourbon evenly among glasses; fill with ice.

White Russian

2011-04-30T10:51:00.006-04:00

My paternal grandmother's drink of choice was the White Russian. It's a classic cocktail whose moniker is shared with:

A person from Belarus

A Russian who supported the tsar in the 1917 Revolution

A type of marijuana

A species of dwarf hamster

So even though grandma wasn't a Belarusian revolutionary who got stoned with hamsters, she enjoyed the occasional sipsky. Budem zdorovy!

White Russian
1 1/2 oz vodka
3/4 oz Kahlua or other coffee liquer
3/4 oz cream
Pour mixed ingredients into an old-fashioned glass filled with ice.

The White Russian cocktail isn't Russian at all. Perhaps the inclusion of vodka inspired the name.

2011-04-21T06:00:00.000-04:00

I am addicted to Foodgawker.com

A couple of years ago, Theresa introduced me to the website and I've been hooked ever since.

Many weekends I scroll through page after page of food photography looking for inspiration for my weekly menu. (Hopefully I will bring the weekly menu back to my blog as a regular post, but with my schedule, I'm embarrased to post so many nights of frozen pizza!)

One of the recipes that continues to pop up on Foodgawker is for Kale Chips. Billed as "the healthy chip" or "the only way to get your children to eat kale," these chips are easy to make and highly addictive. (I don't agree with those food blogging mothers, however. As much as I love kale chips, I'm not sure the flavor is entirely kid friendly.)

Ingredients:
One bunch curly kale
olive oil
salt

Prehead the oven to 350 degrees

Rinse kale very well and dry. (I use my lettuce spinner to dry them quickly and then blot the remaining moisture with paper towels.)

In a large bowl, toss the kale with olive oil. Refrain from salting until after the chips are cooked, otherwise the salt will absorb the moisture and will not crisp in the oven.

Place the kale on a baking sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the edges start to brown. Don't let them get too dark or they will be quite bitter.

**Note: The more olive oil you use the longer they will take to crisp. Try not to be too heavy-handed with the oil.

2011-04-18T06:00:00.004-04:00

I've always wanted to know how to mix drinks. Until recently, I've not been a prolific drinker of the mixed cocktail, sticking mainly to beer and wine. But for some reason I've always had an interest in mastering the classics, at the very least. Thus, I've been entertaining myself on the weekends by playing mixologist.

As far back as I can remember, my mother has enjoyed Campari. Campari is an Italian aperatif that is a distinctive red color (the liqueur was originally dyed with carmine, made by crushing scaled insects.) The flavor of Campari has been described as spicy and sweet, but most think it bitter and unpalatable (crushed bugs aptly come to mind.) Such was my opinion of the drink until I discovered the Campari Spritz.

During my first trip to Italy, I ordered a Campari Spritz without knowing what to expect. Since then, I have been a huge fan. The spritz contains a shot of Campari, a crisp white wine or prosecco, a splash of soda water, and is often served with ice. The drink can be garnished both with green olives or an orange slice. Either served in a wine glass or a rocks glass, the spritz is most often served with ice.

If the wine is cold, I tend to skip the ice.

Happy Birthday Dad!

2011-04-15T21:59:00.000-04:00

2011-03-29T08:34:00.003-04:00

When my schedule became too insane to make time for blogging, I figured the blog hiatus would be temporary, and as usual, I would pick it back up when life calmed a bit. Only, this time, when life calmed, I found I had very little to say.

As social networking picks up more and more momentum, I find that I am less and less inclined to share my silly little thoughts or simple goings-on. I rarely visit Facebook, but when I do, I am often sickened by the self-importance that is shamelessly paraded for all to see.

And so, I am seriously considering putting an end to the blog. I haven't quite made up my mind, but I hope to make my decision soon.

2011-02-10T08:03:00.003-05:00

I'm working around the clock these days. No time for interesting stories or interesting meals! Hopefully I'll get my life back soon.

2011-02-01T06:00:00.003-05:00

A quick wrap-up of the books I read in 2010. I am working on writing my reviews. Click on the book on the sidebar to link to Good Reads, my book tracking website, to read the review or to look at all of the books I’ve tracked.

Homecoming written by Bernard Schlink
Completed February 1, 2010

Half Broke Horses written by Jeannette Walls
Completed February 19, 2010

Songs of the Humpback Whale written by Jodi Picoult
Completed March 1, 2010

The Elephant Keeper written by Christopher Nicholson
Completed March 19, 2010

The Prince of Tides written by Pat Conroy
Completed April 21, 2010

The Clan of the Cave Bear written by Jean M. Auel
Completed May 5, 2010

Her Fearful Symmetry written by Audrey Niffenegger
Completed May 9, 2010

The House at Riverton written by Kate Morton
Completed May 28, 2010

I Am the Messenger written by Markus Zusak
Completed June 8, 2010

Oracle Bones: A Journey Between China’s Past and Present written by Peter Hessler
Completed August 10, 2010

The Thirteenth Tale written by Diane Setterfield
Completed August 31, 2010

Beach Music written by Pat Conroy
Completed September 16, 2010

The Late Lamented Molly Marx written by Sally Koslow
Completed September 30, 2010

City of Thieves written by David Benioff
Completed October 30, 2010

North River written by Pete Hamill
Completed November 9, 2010

Let the Great World Spin written by Colum McCann
Completed January 3, 2011

Books I Could Not Finish

The 13 1/2 Lives of Captain Bluebear written by Walter Moers
Stopped reading August 1, 2010

Spook: Science Tackles the Afterlife written by Mary Roach
Stopped reading August, 20 2010

2011-01-29T10:57:00.002-05:00

Things are Changing Again

2011-01-27T17:22:00.005-05:00

Despite my original excitement to add a new page to my blog, the Weekly Fare page is unruly and a pain to update.
So... I will post my weekly menu right here on the blog each week. Look for the newest menu on Monday.

Check out my newest side bar feature: Weekly Fare

2011-01-19T06:20:00.000-05:00

Ryan and I both love to cook and we do our best to keep life interesting by constantly experimenting or trying new recipes. Each week we plan a new menu and with luck, we prepare several new dishes. Sometimes, the menu is thrown out the window with late nights at work or just a craving for take-out.

Each week I will update my "Weekly Fare" with a rundown of our latest meals.

For now, it is simple, but I hope to revamp the design in the near future.

2011-01-17T17:45:00.007-05:00

When traveling abroad, my favorite places to visit are the food markets, bakeries, and grocery stories. In Asia, my eyes are usually wide with disbelief as I take in the very foreignness of everyday foods. In Italy, especially during my first trip, I am typically searching for the treats my grandparents brought back to us after their visits. I'm not sure if I first picked up a bag of taralli because it look familiar or just because they looked good... but ever since, I've been hooked.

Taralli is a difficult food to describe. Rolled out, boiled, then baked, it is a snack food reminiscent of a pretzel. However, they are made with white wine and olive oil, so they look quite different and do not taste much like a pretzel. In looking for a recipe for this snack, I learned that many Italians eat taralli as a sweet snack - dipping it in icing and adding sugar to the dough. I stuck with the savory version: one batch plain with olive oil and salt, another with crushed fennel seeds.

Rolling out the dough was quite difficult, as it handled like a pastry dough and tended to separate. I ended up rolling the dough flat and cutting it into strips. Once cut, I shaped the dough into ribbons and prepared them for their quick swim in a pot of boiling water.

After boiling, the taralli are baked for about 20 minutes or until golden.

TARALLI WITH FENNEL
Adapted from Field Guide to Herbs & Spices by Aliza Green

Ingredients:
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm white wine
1/2 cup warm water
1 teaspoon salt
3 cups all purpose flour
1 cup semolina
1 cup Molino Caputo Tipo 00 flour
1/2 cup olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons lightly crushed fennel seeds

Instructions:
In a large bowl, scatter yeast over a mixture of white wine and water; leave for several minutes to bubble up, then stir to mix well.

Add flour, semolina, olive oil, and salt. Mix together, then turn onto an unfloured board and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, adding small amounts of water if dough is too dry.

Lightly oil a clean, dry bowl, and return dough. Lightly oil the top, cover with a damp towel, and let rise for 45 minutes or until puffy.

Divide the dough into two portions. Add fennel seeds to one portion. Knead to incorporate.

Divid dough into small portions. Roll each into a long, slim pencil, cut into 3-inch lengths, and pinch the two ends firmly together to form a ring or ribbon.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bring a pot of salted water to a rolling boil and drop the taralli in, a few at a time. When the taralli rise, remove and drain on a kitchen towel.

Arrange boiled taralli on a greased cookie sheet and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Makes 4 to 5 dozen.

2011-01-12T10:48:00.002-05:00

I am very surprised that many folks up north are not familiar with the King Cake. After living in New Orleans, the cake is an annual staple not to be missed... but had I not wandered south, it's likely that I, too, wouldn't know much about the tradition.

A brief primer:

Borrowing a Spanish custom (which some say 16th century France adopted as well), the Creoles served King Cake at balls held on the sixth of January (the Epiphany). Baked inside each cake, was a small object, usually a ring or a bean. The person who got the lucky slice containing the ring or the bean became king or queen of the ball. With their chosen partner, the two would reign as monarchs of the party, and would be responsible for hosting the next ball.

In New Orleans today, King Cake parties are held throughout the Mardi Gras season. Small plastic babies have replaced the more traditional ring or bean. The search for the baby adds excitement, as each person waits to see in whose slice of cake the baby will be discovered.

While custom holds that the person who finds the baby in their slice will be rewarded with good luck, that person is also traditionally responsible for bringing the King Cake to the next party or gathering.

Everything old is new again in the world of King Cakes. While the traditional Creole King Cakes are made from twisted strands of cinnamon dough, topped with icing, and sprinkled with purple, green, and gold colored sugar, in recent years, French bakeries in the New Orleans area have begun selling cakes like the ones made in France: made from a brioche dough and containing an almond paste filling. It looks different but tastes wonderful.

--History of King Cake adapted from WWLTV and www.holidays.net/mardigras/cake

2011-01-10T20:27:00.008-05:00

On Thursday, January 6th, Christians celebrated the Epiphany; the holy day commemorating the Three Kings' visit to baby Jesus. Of course, this is just one belief, as the reason for the celebration and accompanying traditions vary throughout the world.

In Italy, Nonno recalls receiving his only holiday gifts on the eve of the Epiphany; small treats, such as tangerines, were taken from the Christmas tree, where they served as decorations, and placed in the children's shoes. According to Italian myth, these treats were delivered by Befana (deriving from the word Epiphania), an old woman known to give gifts on the eve of the Epiphany.

In popular folklore, Befana visits all the children of Italy on the eve of the Feast of the Epiphany to fill their socks with candy and presents. Being a good housekeeper, many say she will sweep the floor before she leaves. The child's family typically leaves a small glass of wine and a plate with a few morsels of food, often regional or local, for the Befana. --- Italian Christmas tradition of “La Befana”

In Louisiana, the Epiphany is important because it marks the beginning of carnival season. And besides beads and boobs, this time of the year is best known for king cakes. To show my reverence for the the Louisiana tradition, I baked my first king cake of the season.

2011

2011-01-03T16:33:00.002-05:00

Happy New Year!

A Document of Days fizzled out at the end of 2010, but I hope it welcomes 2011 with a bang! I am rethinking my posts and hope to have the blog up and running on a regular schedule in 2011.

2010-11-11T20:19:00.002-05:00

I've been quiet because life has been quiet.
I am really looking forward to the holidays.

Starting a new book. New territory for me. I typically work with contemporary art, but this one focuses on the late 1880s!

Anything new with you?

2010-10-31T06:00:00.002-04:00

When the week ended, Sarah and I packed up our things and headed back to the border. It took us quite a bit longer to get out of China than it did to get in. The lines were long, even at 11:30pm, and we were scrutinized a bit more.

The next night, after a terribly long and frustrating journey, Ryan arrived in Hong Kong.

As I waited in the airport, a young family stood next to me waiting for their arriving friends. The two adults were in their late twenties and their son was not older than two. Like most two-year-olds, he was squirming around, looking for ways to entertain himself. He was remarkably pleasant considering it was 12:30am. I noticed that they switched between Cantonese and English when speaking to on another.

All of a sudden I hear the mother gasp and call to her husband. I look down at the little boy standing next to me. He has taken down his cotton pajama pants and is standing with his hips thrust forward looking at his penis. It only takes me seconds to realize that he is about to pee. I can't look away. What are they going to do?

The mother tears open her purse, reaches in and her hand emerges with a plastic baggie.

Huh?

She opens the baggie and holds it to the boy's body as he fills the bag.

What the?

When he was through, the father ties up the bag and walks it to the nearest trash can.

I was sort of shocked by the whole scene. Not that a child had to pee instantly, no, that's common enough. It was that:
1. He wasn't wearing a diaper
2. The mother was at the ready with her plastic bag
3. The father threw away a bag of urine in the airport trash can

Later that week Ryan witnessed a similar thing, only it took place on the streets of Hong Kong. A father and his child were walking down the street when suddenly the child had to urinate. The father placed an empty water bottle in front of him and he took care of his business.

If it's true that many children in Asia do not wear disposable diapers, this is quite a good thing for our environment :)

2010-10-30T11:01:00.005-04:00

Ever since reading about it, it's been hard to wrap my head around the idea of adults living in factory dormitories. The only exposure I've had to this arrangement is the housing provided to the migrant workers who came to my hometown each summer to harvest tobacco. I was fascinated by these buildings when I was growing up. They were mysterious to me.

Our driver lived in the factory dormitories, as did all of the young workers who threatened to trample us as they streamed down the stairs after completing their shifts. The conditions were not good and I can't imagine what they thought of their position. Were they proud to be employed, sending money back to their families in rural parts of China? Were they lonely, so far away from home? Were they satisfied by the camaraderie they shared with the many other young people in the same position?

Of a dorm located in the same province I was working in, Peter Hessler writes:

2010-10-13T06:00:00.000-04:00

Entry from travel diary:

September 8, 2010
Grand City Hotel
5:15 am

Yesterday when we were leaving the plant for lunch, I was staring out of the van window in a daze. My eyes weren't focused on anything in particular... I was tired and spaced out. I came to my senses when I inadvertently found myself making eye-contact with a man lounging underneath a tractor-trailer truck.

Container trucks are often parked outside the plant being loaded or unloaded with pallets of books that are bound for the shipyard. But I was shocked when I saw this man suspended in a hammock that was tied up between the truck and the container. Later, while we were on the road, I saw a hammock hanging underneath the container itself. Luckily, there was no one in it.

Here is a photo that illustrates the general idea..

This photo does not belong to me. This photo is courtesy panamvan.blogspot.com and was taken in Honduras, not China.

2010-10-12T06:00:00.000-04:00

Entry from travel diary:

September 7, 2010
Grand City Hotel
5:22 am

I woke up at 4am this morning and I couldn't get back to sleep.

First impression of China: It is dirty.

I really didn't expect it to be so dirty. I mentioned in my entries last summer that I though Hong Kong was very dirty. The smog was seemingly palpable; buildings dripped with layers of solidified pollution; the streets were lined with mysterious liquid runoff. But compared to the area I am in now, Hong Kong is a dream.

Driving from the plant to the hotel, we travel through streets lined with dirt-floored shacks with one light bulb hanging from the ceiling. The rooms are opened with garage-like doors... a voyeur's dream.

Last night we left the plant around 9pm. The day shift had just ended and people flooded the streets and alley ways. When we emerged from the plant, we found that our driver had not yet arrived. We stood and waited outside the plant gates.

Groups of shirtless young men, cigarettes casually dangling from their lips, started to gather to stare at us. Being blonde and fair-skinned is a tough thing to hide. We climbed into the van when it arrived, but it was difficult to leave. Workers mill about the streets, unwilling to move for traffic, staring into our car.
_________________________________________________

Not long before arriving in China I read the book "Oracle Bones" by Peter Hessler. Hessler is an American who has lived and worked in China for many years. In the book, he explains that until 1980 the Chinese government was reluctant to develop the region where Shenzhen is today. The government worried that because the region is located so close to Hong Kong, the "capitalist British colony" would contaminate China's communist beliefs.

But in the late 1970s the Chinese government developed Special Economic Zones: An experiment to develop areas quickly by offering tax breaks and investment privileges to foreign investors.

In the book, published in 2006, Hessler writes:

The government's development of the city was simple and straightforward: build infrastructure, invite foreign investment, and attract migrants. In two decades the city's population exploded from around three hundred thousand to more than four million people. . . . The average resident was less than 29 years old; there were few elderly people.

Shenzhen was the only place in China with a modern city wall. It was about ten feet high, and made of chain link; some sections were topped by barbed wire. The entire structure was sixty-seven miles long. If you approached the city from the north you entered one of the wall's checkpoints and followed a modern highway through low green hills.

Despite the leaders' attempts to define and delineate their experiment, certain aspects of Shenzhen developed in their own way. The region came to be dominated by labor-intesive light industry, and factory managers preferred female workers, who could be paid less and were easier to manage. . . Locals often claimed that the ratio was seven women to every man. Shenzhen became famous for prostitution and also for its "second wives," the mistresses of factory owners who already had families in Hong Kong or Taiwan.

The plant where Sarah and I printed the book was not within the walls of Shenzhen (actually, I am not sure if the fence is still up around the city.)

Attempts at border control had unintended consequences. Many factories moved to the other side of the Shenzhen fence, where they took advantage of cheaper land and less rigorous law enforcement. The Shenzhen area became divided into two worlds, which were described by residents as guannei and guanwai, "within the gates" and "beyond the gates."

2010-10-11T12:00:00.001-04:00

In the van on our way back to the plant, I blurted out to Sarah:
"I want that Magic Towel!"
"Yeah" She said, "There is a lot of stuff to look at in the bathroom."
"But the Magic Towel isn't free," I said.

Our conversation moved on without much more discussion of the Magic Towel.

Later that night, we returned to the hotel after a long shift at the plant. I get out my things to brush my teeth when I remember the basket of toiletries. WITHOUT TOUCHING, I look through the basket and see:

His and her lubricants;
Condoms with a fancy vibrating ring;
His and her sanitary lotion
and
The Magic Towel

Oh my gosh.... It dawned on me at the moment that the Magic Towel is for Wiping Up!!!
And since Sarah has stayed at the Grand City Hotel several times, she knew all along.

From that moment on, I was completely grossed out. Every splatter or stain became evidence of an elicit night between a business man and a prostitute.

Needless to say, I never touched the robe hanging in the closet.

2010-09-30T13:10:00.012-04:00

From Chinese immigration we went straight to the printing plant. We spent a few hours working before we had a break to check into our hotel. When we arrived at the Grand City Hotel, we had only a few minutes to put our bags in our rooms before we had to head back to work.

I went up to my room, and instead of returning to the lobby immediately, I took a quick look around. I walked to the window to check out the view...

I looked in the closet to see if there was a complimentary robe and slippers (yes and yes); I also spotted this handy smoke hood (in case of a fire):

And then I strolled through the bathroom. There were all sorts of goods laid out on the counter: Two dental kits, a sewing kit, a nice comb, cotton swabs... the standards. Then I noticed a basket full of toiletries. The first thing to catch my eye was a dehydrated towel (Aptly named the "Magic Towel.") I've seen things like this in novelty stores...but before I got excited about my free towel, I noticed a price on it.

(photo obtained from the internet - as you can see, this is not the "Magic Towel" that I had in my room)

Realizing I might be late getting back, I returned to the lobby without looking at anything else in the basket.

2010-09-30T06:00:00.000-04:00

On Monday morning, Sarah and I met Samuel, our rep from Hong Kong. He would aide us throughout the trip with everything from translation and negotiations on press to getting through menus with no letters.

From the hotel, the three of us took a taxi to the bus station, a bus to the Hong Kong border, where we went through customs to exit Hong Kong, another bus across an undefined territory to the Chinese border, where we went through immigration to enter China, and finally a hired car to get to the printing plant in the Guangdong Province, 45 minutes outside of Shenzhen, China. In all, it took about two hours.

The taxi ride was uneventful enough. The bus trips were smooth, aside from the cacophony of snoring business men. It wasn't until we were tucked into the printer's hired minivan that I started to fear for my life. The fact that I was in a very foreign country didn't bother me, nor the idea that I was so far from home --- it was simply the lack of road rules that had me on edge. Not once did I see an octagonal red sign; and not once did our vehicle stop as we spilled from a side road onto a main thoroughfare.

To take a left, we would simply position ourselves perpendicular to three lanes of oncoming traffic with the hope that we'd make it across before being flattened by an oncoming fleet of tractor trailers.

Later, we heard tales of local drivers throwing their cars into reverse on the highway! If they missed their exit, some simply stopped and backed up - despite the 55+ mph oncoming traffic!

Had I not been strapped in, I would have been bouncing from one end of that van to the other.

2010-09-28T06:00:00.001-04:00

On Saturday, September 4, 2010 I flew from Baltimore to Chicago where I made my connection to the 16-hour flight to Hong Kong. Both flights were uneventful. The flight to Hong Kong inched by with each hour feeling like an eternity. To the surprise of many, this United airplane was not outfitted with individual television monitors, but with group screens. The movies shown were:

The Back-Up Plan with Jennifer Lopez (mediocre)
The Joneses with Demi Moore and David Ducovny (so bad I couldn’t get through it)
Iron Man 2 (it got boring, I didn’t watch it all)
Just Wright with Queen Latifah (slept through it)

I arrived in Hong Kong on time on Sunday, September 5, 2010 around 5:30pm.
After collecting my bags I took the Airport Express train into Hong Kong. For $19 it was a great choice: so clean, on time, quiet, cool. It beat the $50 taxi Ryan and I took when he arrived.

After a quick shower at the hotel, I met Sarah, who had arrived from London earlier that day, and we went out for dinner.

2010-09-27T16:16:00.002-04:00

My trip to Asia earlier this month was a much better than the one I took last year. My company was great, as was the printer I worked with in Shenzhen. My next few posts will give you a quick overview and some anecdotes pulled from the journal I kept while traveling.

2010-09-26T10:07:00.001-04:00

Goldfish Market, Hong Kong

2010-09-24T07:51:00.003-04:00

2010-09-21T06:00:00.001-04:00

2010-09-18T08:57:00.001-04:00

A View of Hong Kong Island from the Star Ferry

2010-09-16T16:35:00.002-04:00

Click to enlarge.

2010-09-01T10:46:00.003-04:00

Last year when I went to Hong Kong I was terribly distraught about leaving. Thinking back on why I was so upset, I recall:

The H1N1 virus was in full swing. Travelers were being quarantined for weeks in China and my temperature would be taken upon landing in Hong Kong to determine if I was well enough to enter the country

Air France flight 447 had just disappeared over the Atlantic Ocean

I would be spending my birthday alone

My uneasiness did not subside when I arrived safely. I was lonely. I was overwhelmed. I called Ryan immediately and had him change my flight to an earlier date.

After being home for a couple of weeks after the trip, I realized that I had squandered an exceptional opportunity to see a very different part of the world.

Luckily, I have the opportunity to make up for the lost experience.

On Saturday, I leave for Hong Kong. From there, I travel to mainland China where I will work for a week. I'll return to Hong Kong, where Ryan will meet me and we'll spend five days touring Hong Kong and Macau.

The best part: I won’t be alone. Sarah, our partner from London, will be meeting me in Hong Kong and going to China with me… and of course, Ryan will arrive later.

I am really excited about this trip!

Fingers crossed Hurricane Earl won’t mess with my travel plans.

2010-08-30T08:38:00.003-04:00

Like many dogs, Sal's feet often twitch when he is sleeping deeply...I imagine he is dreaming about running freely in an open field.
This morning, however, he was wagging his tail in his sleep!
So cute! I'm glad he was having a happy dream.

Driving home.

2010-08-30T06:00:00.001-04:00

Evidence

2010-08-26T06:00:00.000-04:00

Have I shared this before?
Evidence of my problem with Cheez-Its can be traced way back...

2010-08-24T06:00:00.000-04:00

Carnie

2010-08-23T06:00:00.001-04:00

click photo to enlarge

Carolina Beach

2010-08-18T22:05:00.008-04:00

click photo to enlarge

2010-08-16T06:00:00.003-04:00

A New Addiction

2010-08-13T06:00:00.000-04:00

We are growing okra in the garden. I never would have guessed that this crop would bring me the most joy. I honestly thought it would be the tomatoes. Don't get me wrong, I love my tomatoes. Their production has been stellar - but they've worn me out.

I had no idea that okra plants produced such beautiful flowers.

And I can't eat enough of them. I've used okra in many dishes (and I love them pickled!) but by far, my favorite way to prepare okra is the simplest: toss in a bit olive oil, salt, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, tossing every 5.

Cheez Its

2010-08-10T18:26:00.005-04:00

An otherwise perfectly fine day took an ugly turn in the late afternoon, leaving me standing on an over-crowded train in a sour mood. It really doesn't matter what it was that put the scowl on my face (work-related stress typically isn't worth the re-hash); the interesting part is how we get ourselves out of the funk.

Venting, breathing, running, dancing, drinking, eating. We all have our ways of beating the blues.

Today I conquered my anger with Cheez-Its.
R and I have been on a very controlled low-carb diet for two weeks now. When I got home to an empty house, I headed straight for that red box.

Now I just have to rid myself of the shame of eating far too many orange crackers.

What do you do to beat the stress?

My Summer Hiatus Is Over

2010-08-10T09:45:00.002-04:00

I realize that I never announced my summer break from blogging, so it is likely that most of you have abandoned jessicahawkins.blogspot altogether. But if you somehow made it back here, I hope you'll continue to visit. My hiatus is officially over.

Zucchini Flowers in the Morning

2010-06-07T06:01:00.000-04:00

First Tomato

2010-06-05T06:16:00.000-04:00

First Purple Pepper

2010-06-04T06:15:00.001-04:00

Spring

2010-06-02T18:08:00.006-04:00

This might be one of the coolest photos I've ever taken... No photoshop!!

2010-06-01T12:38:00.003-04:00

The best way to spend a Saturday.

2010-05-25T06:00:00.002-04:00

The last book I designed accompanied an exhibit that we recently opened featuring all of the photography and documentation pertaining to Christo and Jeanne-Claude's Running Fence. With this book, I had the opportunity to use non-traditonal materials and techniques. The end result was very gratifying.

Last week I learned that the Washington Book Publishers awarded the book first place in its category. On June 10th, I will learn if it wins Best In Show. Keep your fingers crossed.

2010-05-22T13:33:00.006-04:00

Whenever the subject of snakes comes up, it's usually followed by a round of squeals, scrunched noses, and shaking heads. I typically laugh and launch into the story about the time I picked up a snake with my bare hands and held it up to my father; I was about six years old. What courage!

Even as an adult I've not been particularly scared of snakes. I save that fear for spiders and cockroaches. Oh wait - there was that time with the snake in Kentucky... when it tried to get into our boat. That was pretty horrifying.

Today I opened the front door and walked outside. I wasn't two steps out the door when I noticed movement about a foot to my left. I turned and jumped back. There was a snake in our shrub, it's head out, tongue flicking, eyes locked on mine. My courage failed me and I ran all the way around the house, in the back door and up the stairs, yelling to Ryan about a snake.

Turns out I don't care much for snakes. Not if they live at my house.

2010-05-15T14:35:00.001-04:00

Did you know that you can pay a service to make daily wake up calls to your home?
Seriously?

www.mycalls.net

2010-04-21T14:30:00.002-04:00

Weeds.

2010-04-20T06:14:00.004-04:00

KEENELAND
Lexington, Kentucky
April 16 - 17, 2010

2010-04-19T06:15:00.003-04:00

KEENELAND
Lexington, Kentucky
April 16 - 17, 2010

Back to the Races...

2010-04-18T17:47:00.009-04:00

KEENELAND
Lexington, Kentucky
April 16 - 17, 2010

Ocean at Night

2010-04-06T13:57:00.002-04:00

2010-03-02T06:00:00.002-05:00

On my way to work this morning I walked behind a suited businessman carrying his bagged lunch. What made him particularly unique was that he was carrying his lunch in a white Glad Force-Flex garbage bag: red ties at the top and all.

Through the plastic I could make out his yogurt, hostess cupcakes, and a drink.

2010-03-01T14:41:00.002-05:00

It is so hard for me to understand why people drink on the commuter train in the evenings. That might sound strange coming from me, as I quite enjoy a cold beer or glass of wine after work, but I just don't understand why people can't wait until they get home. You might be surprised at how many people imbibe on the train - and how varied the drinkers are. I've seen middle-aged business men with a brown-bagged can of beer, 40-something women chugging bud lights, and even grandmothers sipping pre-mixed margaritas...very strange.

2010-02-25T06:00:00.001-05:00

Venice

2010-02-23T17:41:00.004-05:00

2010-02-22T06:00:00.002-05:00

Digging a path to our back door...

Getting lost while getting the mail...

2010-02-19T20:40:00.005-05:00

When we returned to the States after a week in Italy, two freak snowstorms in DC/Maryland made it impossible for us to get home. It wasn't until a week after we got back from Italy that we finally made it home. These photos were taken our first night back.

2010-02-18T11:02:00.002-05:00

Despite earlier promises, I've obviously not increased the frequency of blog posts this month, but that's not for lack of material. Most of you know that I was fortunate enough to return to Italy on January 30th, but the trip there and back was filled with so many difficulties that I've needed a lot of time to decompress. I will soon be posting photos of our time in Italy, and of the snow we returned to.

2010-01-10T20:47:00.002-05:00

Happy New Year! As expected, January started off with a bang. The first day back to work after a great holiday was a whirlwind and it's been that way since. The exhibition catalogue I am working on is wrapping up and I'll be traveling in just a few weeks to see it on press. I hope to start a more regular blog schedule in February.

Lay Flat to Dry

2009-12-23T01:00:00.002-05:00

I guess the white sweater was too tempting to pass up.

Still Snowed In

2009-12-21T15:12:00.002-05:00

This is what our county posted regarding our unplowed road:

Residential Streets
* Plowing begins up to 36-48 hours after storm ends. One lane will be made passable* 2-3 days later. Expect snow-packed roads.

Excellent.

2009-12-21T06:00:00.000-05:00

Let it Snow! Let it Snow! Let it Snow!

2009-12-20T18:08:00.010-05:00

2009-12-09T12:46:00.001-05:00

In a conversation with R last night, I blurted:

"People who don't eat dairy are stupid!"

Profound, I know.

The only difference I've noticed since cutting dairy, intense and constant cravings for cheese.

2009-12-01T06:00:00.000-05:00

Many sources claim that a diet without dairy is actually much better for our bodies. Dairy has been associated with lethargy, weight-gain, and even migraines. Moreover, some people claim that without dairy, their skin looks and feels healthier.

I love dairy products. And up to now, I couldn't imagine life without cheese. But I'm taking the dairy-free challenge. For the next 24 days (December 1 to 24) I am cutting out meat and dairy from my diet. I am very interested to see if I feel any different by eliminating these foods from my body. I will also increase my weekly exercise to see if toning up will be easier on this diet.

It is an experiment. I am simply curious about the claims and if in 24 days I find no proof, I will return to a life with meat and cheese. I will be careful eat a vegetarian diet rich in protein and I will continue to take my daily vitamins.

Can't wait to report back!

2009-11-29T21:33:00.005-05:00

I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!

The food was excellent, but this was my favorite part of the holiday...

2009-11-23T09:49:00.001-05:00

Jeanne-Claude: 1935-2009

2009-11-19T17:45:00.011-05:00

Yesterday I had the opportunity to visit the Smithsonian American Art Museum's highly nondescript warehouse where art is stored and staged for upcoming exhibitions. Each time I visit I am excited by the feeling that I am truly behind-the-scenes. But yesterday was a particularly special day because I was there to see the drawings that Christo made in his preparations for the Running Fence.

I have been working with the digitized drawings for months now, as I have been designing the exhibition catalogue that will accompany our show, Christo and Jeanne-Claude: Remembering the Running Fence, but there is always a feeling of surprise and exhilaration when I first see the actual work. Typically I am shocked by the size... Inevitably, my expectations were for something either much smaller or much larger. Then the moment shifts as I accept what is before me, and forget all about my preconceived notions.

One by one, we viewed 47 drawings. They ranged from pieces that were 8' wide by 3' high to pieces that were a mere 11" by 9". The time spent was quiet and intimate, as I took careful note of the colors of each work, in preparation for being on press in January.

When I got home yesterday, I felt revived by having spent time with actual artwork. Because the publication designers spend so much time in front of a computer, it's easy to forgot why we are doing what we are doing.

And then, this afternoon, I opened my email box to see a new message titled Jeanne-Claude Obituary. Naturally, I was speechless. This was completely unexpected. Last night, Jeanne-Claude died of complications from a brain aneurysm.

It's true that I'd never met Jeanne-Claude, but for quite some time I have been hearing stories about her and Christo, reading essays that are to be published in our catalogue, and working with hundreds of photographs that include images of Jeanne-Claude and Christo as they worked to create the Running Fence in the 1970s. It's been understood from the start that what I am doing now has been for them.

And now, even more so.

Read more here.

2009-11-19T10:35:00.002-05:00

Moving into a new place often means inheriting the previous owners' oddities. For us, it was lavender walls, a completely black garage studio, mystery holes in the ceiling, and a plank of wood attached to the very top of a tree with a bungee cord. (The list is actually much longer, but I'll spare you.)

Slowly, we are tackling each project and putting our own stamp on things.

This weekend, it was leaves and climbing trees.

2009-11-19T06:00:00.000-05:00

2009-11-04T08:58:00.004-05:00

"It was Aunt Lovey's belief that all ordinary people led extraordinary lives, but just didn't notice."

I haven't posted a blog entry not because I don't try to think of something to say each and every day, but because I just can't find the extraordinary in my life. I'm sure if you got me on the phone, I could chatter away, but when I sit down to write, life seems so ordinary.

Quote from Lori Lansens' novel The Girls.

2009-11-01T10:34:00.000-05:00

2009-10-16T06:00:00.000-04:00

2009-10-15T06:00:00.003-04:00

2009-10-14T15:51:00.003-04:00

2009-10-08T06:00:00.000-04:00

Tonight we leave for Lexington, Kentucky. It's been too long since we've been to the horse races at Keeneland. I am looking forward to some good ole fashioned gambling.

2009-10-02T06:00:00.000-04:00

Are you familiar with Etsy.com?

Etsy is a website where "people who make things" can sell their work. Painters, sculptors, photographers, jewelers, knitters, book-makers, gardeners... you name it. They all gather on Etsy to showcase and sell their work.

I have purchased beautiful photography from several artists on the site. The transactions were very easy!

Check it out: www.etsy.com

2009-09-28T06:00:00.001-04:00

In Savannah, I dealt with flying roaches; New Orleans, stinging caterpillars (my fingers swelled like hot dogs when I was stung); but since moving to D.C. my experience with bugs has been, thankfully, limited.

Until we moved into a house.

Except for the first dreadful apartment that we lived in for the first six months (which I oddly have no pictures of), each of our D.C. apartments was perfectly sealed from potential visitors. Our house is no different. But step outside, and it is like a visit to a zoo.

Ok, I'm exaggerating.

The truth is, we have seen ant colonies that rival the population of New York City; june bugs, beetles, spiders, moths, millions of crickets, a praying mantis (see my photo below) and even a writhing mound of maggots. But the two insects that shocked us (one for it's size and the other for it's size and unsightliness) were the wasps (huge) and the clearwing hummingbird moth (horrible.)

I managed a photo of the first giant wasp we killed (with my new DSLR!) and the photo of the clearwing hummingbird moth is ripped from the internet.

Unfortunately you don't get an idea of size in the wasp photo. But believe me, these things are huge! When straightened out, they are about two inches long.

The clearwing hummingbird moth is one of the most repulsive bugs I've ever seen. It looks like a moth, a bee, and a lobster.

2009-09-24T06:00:00.001-04:00

And the reasons why we do NOT miss living in D.C.

1. As mentioned in an earlier post, the parking issues. For me, the lasting displeasure comes from the time when my parked car was totaled by an underage drunk driver. But there are also the tickets and the hours of driving in circles to find a parking spot
2. Not having any private space outdoors
3. The higher price of everything - gasoline, groceries, a pint of beer...
4. Holding my breath after hearing the screech of breaks...waiting for the sound of the collision
5. From the window of my home, hearing with clarity ,what each car stopped at the stoplight is listening to
6. The unbearably loud sound of buses passing our window
7. Not being able to hear someone speaking 6 feet in front of me because of the constant sound of the buses passing by our window
8. Waking up in the night to the deafening sound of tractor-trailer trucks downshifting
9. Putting doggy shoes on Sal so he can get down the stairs without slipping when the elevator goes out
10. Carrying groceries across a street and up to the third floor every time we went shopping
11. Constant horn honking and the overall impatience of D.C. drivers

2009-09-23T06:00:00.003-04:00

I suppose there are some reasons why we might miss living in the city. Here are a couple:

1. The local bar(s)
2. The take-out restaurants where we knew what we were going to order without looking at a menu
3. The fact that take-out is available at all times
4. Walking to the grocery store
5. I miss being able to say we live in D.C. Now, we are just a couple of people from Maryland. Much less exciting :)

The truth is, I didn't take much advantage of city-living... especially in the last couple of years. During the last year and a half that we lived in the city, we lived in a cute neighborhood, but it was not downtown, as we'd lived before (Dupont Circle, Logan Circle.) I was no longer taking walks to local coffee places, or boutiques, or local bookstores, as I'd done often when we first moved from New Orleans. We were living in an apartment building among single-family homes. When Sal and I took our evening walk through the neighborhood, I would peer into the yards and homes and long for the single-family house lifestyle.

Now we have all of that; and I am hardly missing city living. I'm looking forward to sitting outside on the deck on an autumn night in sweaters and socks; winter evenings in front of the fireplace, shoveling the snow off of the driveway for the first time... and then spring and flowers and a vegetable garden that my grandfather would be proud of.

2009-09-22T07:00:00.000-04:00

Happy Anniversary Mom & Dad!